History felt in the production of Guanshan brown sugar (2014/03/12)

During the Japanese colonial period, restrictions on sugar production led to the creation of an underground industry similar to that seen in tobacco and alcohol. This pushed sugar production to remote areas like Guanshan, Tainan. Today a manufacturer based in Guanshan keeps this tradition alive by using ancient techniques to make brown sugar. 

Hot syrup flows like magma, filling the air with a wonderful aroma.

The maker still uses a traditional wood-fired stove to turn this sugar cane juice into syrup. He stirs it by hand to form brown sugar. Eight hours is needed to complete the process from boiling the sugar to end product. The natural, traditional flavor stirs memories in many, making the time spent worthwhile.

The method shown here began during the Japanese colonial period. At that time, sugar-making was a heavily restricted state-run industry. Guanshan, located near the Nanhua Reservoir in Tainan, was known as a secret land for sugar production invisible from the authorities. 

Chang Hsi-bin
Sugar Manufacturer
In the past you had to walk four or five hours to come here. It was outside the realm of the law. You weren’t likely to be discovered.

Yu Wen-you
Sugar Cane Farmer
Everything back then was done quietly. You often worried if someone would come to make an inspection. You would make some then quickly conceal it.

The method used here has been passed down over two generations. It gives the sugar a wonderful flavor made possible by diligent attention to craft.

秘境手工糖

台灣在日治時期,製糖和菸酒都屬於公賣事業。而在靠近南化水庫的台南關山,因為是深山峻嶺、人煙稀少,不容易被查緝,有不少製糖業者都由此發跡,一直到現在都還是採用古法,燒柴來熬煮甘蔗汁,手工製作黑糖,一起來看看。

熱騰騰的糖漿,像是岩漿不斷流下,散發陣陣濃郁香氣。

業者遵循古法,用爐灶燒柴,將甘蔗汁熬成糖漿,再手工翻攪製成黑糖,熬糖到製成要八個小時,天然古早好滋味,讓不少人回味不已。

作出口碑的古法製糖,其實日治時代就開始,但當時製糖屬於公賣事業,受到管制,位在南化水庫附近,地理位置偏僻的關山,就成為台南地區的製糖秘境。

[[手工製糖業者 張錫斌]]
“以前來這裡要用走的,走四、五小時,算是天高皇帝遠,比較不會被發現”

[[甘蔗農 游文友]]
“以前做都是偷偷做啊,時常都會擔心會不會有人來查,所以都是做一些就趕快拿去藏”

傳承兩代的手工黑糖,蘊含的除了美味,還有對糖堅持和用心。

 

本文引用自 民視新聞網 http://news.xn--1qws34d.com/
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